I was getting ready to leave for the trail and realized that I don’t have snow baskets for my trekking poles. I didn’t think I needed them until I hit Colorado. With the weather last week that brought fresh two feet of snow, now I need them to reach Cumbres Pass. Kenn, the camp host, told me I could ask the facility team members to fabricate something that works for my poles and yes, Joseph and Elijah, the two facility staff members, did the magic! Later, another staff member brought a bunch of hiking poles with baskets and I found the pair of baskets that works for my poles. I’m grateful for extraordinary hospitality of the Ghost Ranch staff. People who work here made a big impression on me.

I couldn’t leave the ranch since they found a man who acts aggressively toward hikers. I waited patiently while the sheriff was searching for the man. This is the first time I encountered a potential danger of human and I’m glad that people are looking out for CDT hikers and public safety.

Around 1 pm, after 3 hours of wait, I left the ranch and hiked into the canyons. The red rocks were gorgeous. Soon, I came up on the plateau and the trail turned into a backcountry road. As I climbed to the top of the hills, I could see snow capped mountains in the distance. Since I had a late departure, I just kept walking until late in the evening, and I found a perfect flat spot in the trees with a view of gorgeous sunset. Soon, the full moon came up and hid behind the thin clouds. 

The wind didn’t die down and I heard it all night long. The next day I left my camp at 6:40am, and went down to the trail. I saw two people hiking! At my day 4, I saw hikers first time on the trail. I met two of them at the Ghost Ranch, one man from Canada and one woman from Taiwan! I haven’t met a solo Asian woman thru-hiker so I was very excited to meet her. We leap-frogged all day! What a coincidence that she and I were in each other’s presence on this 3,100-mile trail. Even if I don’t see her again, just knowing that she is out there with all the elements gives me a sense of company and comfort.

The wind was strong all day long. I kept a good pace even when I encountered snow here and there.  It’s been a year since I’ve done something like this and everything feels normal. From how I pack my backpack to crossing waters to walking for long hours, I am doing as if I have never left the trail. My foot feels better every day, realizing that for me to get to 100% healing, I had to thru-hike and let my body recalls the memories of how I move and build muscle where it was weak. In fact, I feel stronger than last year or when I hiked the PCT. I’m thankful for my physical therapists who worked with me for months to get to where I am now.

I set my camp in the woods on the saddle where it is sheltered from the wind and 0.5 mile from the Rio Vallecitos with a plan to cross it first thing in the morning when the water is at the lowest level.

The next morning, At 6am sharp I left my camp and headed down to the Rio Vallecitos. When I arrived, I saw the Canadian hiker I met at the Ghost  Ranch. He was getting ready to cross the river. I told him it’s good to have him here with me. The water was lower and narrower than I expected and it wasn’t a big deal. After I crossed, I thanked him and he said, “I didn’t do anything!” I told him that it’s just nice to have a company when crossing a river so if something happens, there’s somebody there. I started hiking and it was peaceful as usual. I saw wild horses and wild turkeys. The wind died down overnight and it was quiet until I came to open fields. The wind became more intense as the day progressed. I desperately looked for a wind-shielded camp and found one that was okay in the trees. I put my wet shoes, insoles and socks to dry out as usual. Not only windy but also it was freezing cold tonight. My wet stuff were all frozen before sunset!

I was warm enough and the wind didn’t keep me up all night. The next day was a calm and sunny freezing morning. It took extra few minutes to thaw my shoes with my hands before I can put them on. 

The morning was bright and beautiful. I saw icicles and ice everywhere. Some had interesting patterns and shapes. I liked the icicles near the creeks the best since they shine reflecting the morning sunlight. 

I didn’t encounter snow much until the last 5 miles to the New Mexico and Colorado border. Since I hit the snow in late afternoon, there were many times I sank into the softened snow at waist level. Postholing is dangerous since you don’t know when and how deep you may sink into the snow. I moved with caution. Navigation becomes challenging since you’re now following people’s footsteps and sometimes they don’t lead to the right directions. I slowed down and I was happy to make it to the New Mexico and Colorado border.

I have done snow traveling and know what to expect for the most part. What’s ahead of me will be a completely new experience. Colorado section is 726 mile long and the majority of the trail will be covered with snow. I’ve never backpacked in snow for such a distance and I’m nervous about it. There are alternative routes when it comes to dangerous or need a break from snow. I want to remain extremely humbled, accept that I will significantly slow down, and make a wise choice when making decisions.

With that, I’m celebrating that I completed walking the New Mexico section from desert to lava field to snow. Now I’m looking forward to hiking the Colorado mountains- the crux of the CDT with high altitude, exposure, snow, weather, and incredible alpine environment which I love so much.

Appreciation: Bryan, Jerry and Terry for giving me a ride to Ghost Ranch, staff members at Ghost Ranch, especially Beth for providing me with fresh towels, mailing postcards, Kenn for incredible conversation, Joseph and Elijah for fabricating snow baskets. Esteban for giving me a ride to Chama in his awesome truck