At Nantahala Outdoor Center, I received my resupply package. I quickly repacked and organized my food and took care of other routine tasks. There were quite a few thru-hikers at the center. They all seemed to be busy, taking care of their needs. I was able to focus on my tasks when everybody else was doing the same.

On the way out, I grabbed portable water, thinking that it would be easier since I can drink without treating it. 

Later, when I took a sip of water, I immediately spit it out, and this phrase hit me hard- “Mni Wiconi,” a Lakota phrase for water is life, water is sacred, which I learned when I participated in the Standing Rock protest against the Dakota Access Pipeline in 2016. If water is life, the quality of water we consume impacts the well-being of our lives. At that point, it had been a week since I started drinking stream and spring water. These waters taste amazing. When I took a sip of the tap water, my body knew immediately that the water didn’t have the quality that sustains my well-being. It had been treated with chemicals, and it lost its sacredness.

I probably wouldn’t have noticed it if I hadn’t been drinking mountain water. One of the benefits of thru-hiking is that I have the privilege of accessing incredible natural water for about half a year, except when I had to get water from cow tanks on the CDT.

I consider that having clean air and water is one of the fundamental human rights, and yet, a lot of people on this planet don’t have access to it. I think about it often how privileged I am that I grew up and live in the countries where I could just turn on the faucet and drink water, even though it is not natural mineral water. I don’t have to think about the hardship and labor to get water unless I’m thru-hiking.

On the CDT, water was so scarce. I put a lot of labor and planned carefully to have enough water to keep going. My days were absolutely dictated by water all the time. Here on the AT, not so much. So far, if I walk 7 miles, I can certainly hit a water source. Sometimes, a series of springs and streams were on the trail. What a luxury to have plenty of water!

The abundance of water on the AT is reflected by the green belt of the mountains all the way to the horizon. My lips are not chapped. My fingertips haven’t cracked. My body also appreciates the humidity and hiking in the shade.   

In the forest, I saw many butterflies flying around. They were chasing each other and looking for their mates. I admire them for many reasons. They are a symbol of metamorphosis, migration, and beauty. The trail became a butterfly boulevard. As butterflies danced in the air, beautiful songs of birds echoed in the cathedral of the trees. I couldn’t help smiling as I moved through the forest.

I also encountered quite a few bear scats and had my first sight of deer once I entered the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. We made eye contact, and she looked at me with a gentle gaze and kept me company for a while. I watched her walk gracefully. Very peaceful, I thought. I hope that I will attain her level of walking in peace someday.

On the way, I walked over the Fontana Dam bridge. The dam is known as the tallest dam in the eastern United States. I had mixed feelings as I walked across into the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. I found it interesting that a huge human-made structure that fundamentally destructs the environment sits right next to a national park, of which mission is to “preserve unimpaired the natural and cultural resources and values of the National Park System for the enjoyment, education, and inspiration of this and future generations.”

Perhaps my mixed feelings are a reflection of my constant struggle of being a human in a modern world that has disconnected from nature, and wanting to have kinship with our Mother Earth, when I benefit a lot from our convenient way of life. We exist in between of completely different things- ideology and reality. Dams and national parks. It is kind of standing on the edge of a coin that has two sides. No wonder why it’s difficult! Shouting, “peace and justice!” at many protests under the structure of the US military industry complex, Preaching, “refuse, reduce, reuse, and recycle plastic!” while wearing and using gear that is made of plastic on the trail, and capitalism telling us to consume more, etc. Yet, I choose to struggle, walking on the edge of reality and ideology, over trying nothing. The point is not whether I make a difference, nor do I rely on hope for change. What matters is that I live my life fully, like these birds and butterflies, to fill my role and responsibility on this planet no matter what outcomes we have, and having a purpose over hope. 

This morning, I made it to Kuwohi, the highest point of the AT, at sunrise. I walked in the dark through the winds and snow. Yes, snow! as if the creator was playing a trick to make me miss the San Juan Mountains of Colorado on the CDT, where I struggled to move through snow last year. When I made it to the tower, there were a few visitors who drove up there, shivering and waiting for the fog to clear out for the sunrise. 

Soon, I saw the sun behind the fog and conifers covered with fresh snow. 

Soon, everyone left. I was alone on top of the observation tower. Since I was there longer, the fog cleared up a little more, and I was able to glance at the mountains.

I continued my journey to Newfound Gap. By then, the sun came through the trees, and I was finally warming up. Trillium seemed to have frost damage on them, and I know they’ll bounce back and be fine. They adapt to changes- to survive and thrive. So we can. 

I didn’t expect to see snow on the AT. I thought it was a gift that I was glad to receive. Even though it’s freezing and cold, the snow brought us much-needed water to the area, which struggles with a severe drought.

Before reaching Newfound Gap, my next resupply point and a place where my friend Nat would meet me, I found a spring. The water I carried this morning froze. I was delighted to find the beautiful spring. I filtered and drank the water. It was amazing! Every time I drink spring water, I feel rejuvenated, refreshed, and restored. My whole body feels alive again. I said, “Cheers to Kuwohi and this crystal clear water!”

Yes, Mni Wiconi- water is life!