Overview: after leaving shelter Cove, I entered a quiet forest, probably the most quiet place I hiked since I started the PCT. I wondered what makes it so quiet and started paying attention to my surroundings. The forest had mostly old growth Douglas Fir that was covered by beard lichen. On the forest floor, I saw mostly huckleberry and red huckleberry bushes. When the forest becomes monotone, it is quiet. Little diversity of plants means little animal life. I heard chickadee, robin and nuthatch occasionally but otherwise, it was silent. This monotone forest and the swarms of mosquitoes helped me focus on walking since there wasn’t much external stimulation. The trail took me to the Three Sisters Wilderness, which I’ve been wanting to visit for years. This wilderness has thousands of lakes along the trail with a stunning view starting with Le Conte Crater, South Sister, Middle Sister, North Sister and Collier Cone. Right before reaching the Collier Cone, there was an area called Obsidian Limited Entry Area where I saw Obsidian everywhere! It was getting later in the day so the lighting was perfect. This dark volcanic glass reflected the sunlight and made the world look shiny and beautiful. From there, the scene dramatically changed to the lava field, passing McKenzie Pass and Santiam Pass.
Appreciation: Liz, a NatureBridge’s board member, and her family who live just outside of Sisters for hosting me for a night with amazing food and hospitality. Her chickens’ eggs, fresh produce and fish tacos were absolutely nourishing and exactly what I needed. Thank you!
Best learning: In the summer of 2010, I was working on my film with Sarah James, a Gwich’in elder in Alaska to support her nation’s work to protect their sacred land, aka the coastal plain of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, from a potential oil drilling. One day, she said to me, “Mosquitoes are good. They keep us busy. Without them, we will be too lazy and get too comfortable.” I remembered her words as I was going through this section. I also found that mosquitos and I have something in common. Our prime time, early morning and late evening, is the same!
Challenges: walking across 13.6 miles of lava fields in the heat was mentally exhausting. One wrong step can lead to sprains and strains of an ankle that take you out of the PCT!
Disappointment: at Shelter Cove, I was so hungry that I ate food that I normally avoid and the next morning I woke up with swollen joints. I was disappointed that 1) I didn’t do a good job of resupply food between Ashland to Shelter Cove, 2) I knew I was making a bad choice and couldn’t help it.
Exciting moment: seeing the Three Sisters for the first time. Camping with a view of Collier Cone and North Sister at sunset and sunrise was special. Meeting the former NatureBridge intern from 1998 when we were known as the Yosemite Institute. She and her husband are taking their three children on a backpacking trip! Jumping in the lake during the prime time of mosquitos and staying submerged in the water, seeing confused mosquitos swarming over my head. For some reason, even though my head was above water, they didn’t bother me and I was able to enjoy the cold water soak at the end of the day.
