After Chris dropped me off at the Oregon side of the Bridge of the Gods, I walked across 0.4 mile bridge over the Columbia River. It was the most frightening experience I had on this entire PCT! There was no sidewalk. The bridge had metal grades so I could see the river several hundred feet below my feet through. I was told to walk against the traffic, so I saw all oncoming cars heading toward me. I was hoping that they would see me and yield to give me enough space to continue walking. It was also very windy. I learned that Columbia Gorge is known as a capital of windsurfing. I held onto my hat with my both hands for the entire way, so that I won’t lose my hat in the wind. When it was over, I was so relieved!
After the bridge, the trail climbed the first 11 miles from almost sea level to 3500 feet. Even it was over 3000 feet elevation gain, I felt really good in my body. First, it’s because I was well nourished and taken care of by my great friends in Hood River. Second, there is plenty of oxygen compared to the Sierra mountain above 10,000 feet. As I began walking in the Washington forest, a word came into my mind. Abundance. Even on the eastern dry side of the mountain, there’s so much vegetation with thimble berries, huckleberries, salmon berries, and blackberries. I enjoy walking and harvesting. When I found wild strawberries in the burned woods as I climbed the last hills to see the Mt. Adams, I was euphoric. This is what strawberries taste like and I forget if I only eat strawberries from the stores. I tried not to be greedy so I just picked a handful of them. They are so delicious – sweet with right amount of tanginess, and I call them red pearls of the woods. Harvesting wild fruits and vegetables is one of my favorite things to do in nature. It reminds me of the direct connection with nature as well as shared gift that mother nature offers us
There is something that is very different about the forest in Washington and Oregon. I hike for days in the woods without much views or change in scenery and all of the sudden I surface to the stunning mountains. I hiked for three days straight without much view of Mount Adams. I waited and walked. It felt like forever. Then, I came above all the trees and found myself in the Horseshoe Meadows full of wildflowers with Mt. Adams right in front of me. That moment, I thought all of the last three days in the woods paid off. I sat at the edge of the meadow staring at the mountain surrounded by wildflowers. It was another paradise after seeing the Paradise Park at Mt. Hood. I thought I could stay there forever just looking, smelling the flowers, feeling the breeze and soaking up the beauty.
I took my time hiking the paradise and when I came to one of the drainages with more flowers, I decided it’s time to follow my instincts and go off trail to find a camp. After hiking up toward Adam’s Glacier, I found one of the most gorgeous camps on my entire PCT trip. I could see Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier and Mt. Saint Helens all of them! The sunset went off forever because of the overcast and I was overwhelmed by the beauty.
The next morning I took a short day hike up toward Adams glacier on one of the lateral moraines. I noticed there are no human foot prints and lines of angulate which is not deer but I wasn’t sure what it was. When I reached one of the peaks, I saw a mound of white thing and they were three mountain goats! Then, I saw a group of goats walking in a line on another moraine ridge moving up toward the glacier in the golden morning light. I realized that I came in the world of mountain goats! They are amazing climbers, and I had no idea that they exist in the Pacific Northwest. What a special treat for me to encounter them and watch them do their thing without minding me. I took my time enjoying this incredible place then took off to cover some miles in the late afternoon.
With just a couple of days of food, my pack was so light that I felt like flying over the mountains. I found a quiet and tranquil lake right before sunset to settle in for the night, looking forward to the next day to see the Goat Rock, a place everyone praises as the best of PCT in Washington.
The Goat Rock was absolutely incredible with non-stop breath-taking view. I did my best to go slow since I didn’t need to be at the resupply location that day and I only have 350 miles left to finish the northbound during the peak season of wildflowers. Things work out in a way it’s supposed to be. I remember crying and being sad about skipping the Sierra. But with this much of snow, the Sierra will have flowers well into August and September. But in Oregon and Washington, now is the time. It teaches me how to live in the moment which is what I’ve been practicing on this entire trail. So when I took a detour to climb the Snowy Mountain Peak, I decided to spend a night there to watch the sunset and sunrise. This is one of the best be-in-the-moment decisions I’ve made on the PCT. It was absolutely stunning and unbelievable to witness the sunset and sunrise on top of the mountain. The trail took me to the Knife Ridge with a view of Mount Rainier in the morning sun. As I started to disappear in the woods and continued my path toward White Pass, I thought the Goat Rock could be one of the most, if not the most, memorable and incredible nature experience I may have had since I began my journey.
Appreciation for Chris to drop me off at the bridge of the gods. For PCTA White pass volunteers, working to remove down trees on the path as well as so many others who continue to maintain the trail. For incredible weather, wildlife, berries and Alpine blue bells, which is one of my favorite greens in the Rocky Mountains and I was delighted to find them My taste buds exploded with so much enjoy!
Best learning: Things turn out in a way it’s supposed to be for reasons whether I want to accept it in the moment or not. I remember crying and being sad about skipping the Sierra. With so much of snow, the Sierra will have flowers well into August and September. But in Oregon and Washington, now is the time. It teaches me how to live in the moment which is what I’ve been practicing on this entire trail.
Challlenges: accepting other PCT hikers at the establish camp even it’s so small and when you find a spot for solitude, and yet there are more space to share. The first night, I found a pre-impacted campsite right next to the trail. I usually go off trail to find a solo spot because I’m here to enjoy solitude and I also like to have my own space. But that night, it was getting late and I didn’t think anybody would’ve come after me. Then a mother and daughter showed up and asked if I mind if they camp right next to me. Since they asked, I was honest to say my preference to camp alone. The daughter honored my request and went to find her own spot. The mother told me if I want to have solitude, I should’ve found a solo spot and shouldn’t be camping here. I was just impressed how she claimed her place like her own because I would have found another place to give space for other hikers. We had a conversation, not so pleasant. The challenge was that I was there first, I needed my space, wasn’t in the mood to have someone 2 feet away from me and want to be welcoming to other hikers. I thought about that interaction for a few days, and I came to a place where I want to do a good job in the future to welcome other hikers who are exhausted and just want to settle in. If I really want to camp alone, I need to go off trail where nobody can find me. That is what I usually do anyways!
Disappointment: I was disappointed that I didn’t really understand the PCT hikers expectation for how we share a campsite that is very small, and wasn’t welcoming enough to the mother and daughter when they showed up, exhausted, hungry, and be ready to settle.
Exciting moments: harvesting varieties of berries, especially the wild strawberries because they’re not that common. Finding Alpine bluebells and adding them to my last dinner on this section. Seeing Mt. Adams, finding the off trail camp near the glacier to myself with the gorgeous view of the mountains. Taking my time to soak up one of the most beautiful nature scenes I’ve ever experienced in my life: hiking up to glacier, meeting mountain goats in the morning golden light, watching the sunrise and the sunset on top of the Old Snowy Mountains with the 360 view of Mount Adams, Rainier, and mount Saint Helens.
