8/4/23: Snoqualmie Pass to Stevens Pass, Washington North (2,393 – 2,464 miles)

At Snoqualmie Pass, I debated whether to take a zero day or not. I felt an excitement and urgency to get to Canada because it’s only 250 miles from Snoqualmie. I was also feeling a need for some fresh food. So I decided to treat myself with fresh breakfast at the Summit Inn and keep going. When I saw buckwheat pancakes on the menu, I was thrilled! I ordered three stacks of buckwheat pancakes with berries and two over easy eggs. When they arrived, I basically inhaled all of it. It was amazing. Having fresh food and enough calories makes a big difference because after that, I felt very strong as I climbed over 2000 feet of steep Cascade mountains. My pack was also light with only a three-day supply of food. 

Classic North Cascade mountains with steep hills with Mount Rainier in the distance

As I continued my hike into the evening, I saw two mountain goats. One of them had a collar on and they didn’t care about my presence so I assumed that they were domesticated mountain goats. Still, I enjoyed watching them with wildflowers in the evening light and Mt. Rainier in the background. I arrived at a pond and took a cold evening bath, my favorite way to end my day. 

The little pond at sunrise

The next day, I didn’t mean to hike the PCT alternative route but I ended up doing so by choosing Pete Lake and Waptus Pass Trails. Right when I was fording a river, a woman came from behind me. We introduced ourselves and started a conversation. She’s from East Washington, an immigration defense attorney who loves outdoors, backcountry skiing and trail running. For the rest of the day, she and I had an amazing conversation. We talked about race and equity, access and privilege, etc. We shared how we grew up and developed our love for nature. Although our stories are so different, we both had parents who made a huge influence on us to connect with nature. She was white and we talked about white privilege and how to make the outdoor space more welcoming to people of color and people with marginalized identities. She also cared to stop for wildlife, an amazing field of huckleberries to forage, a swimming hole and she spotted a black bear! She taught me indigenous names for Mount Adams, Mount Rainier, and Glacier Peak. The Klickitat call Mt. Adams Pahto. The Puyallup call Mt. Rainier Tahoma, meaning “mother of waters.” The Sauk call Glacier Peak Dakobed, meaning “Great Parent.” When we arrived at Deep Lake, we said good-bye and I continued hiking the last steep hill to the Cathedral Pass then to a small lake off the PCT during my golden hour. There were two other local folks camping at the shore and they were very welcoming to me. I set my camp across from them on the lake and settled for the restful night being so happy – finding someone for the first time in the past two and half months I felt deeply connected. 

This was the first time I’ve spent all day hiking with somebody. I felt connected to her through shared values. The amount of conversation we had was perfect. I felt comfortable to be bold and honest with her about my PCT experience as a woman of color. She was incredible in listening and emphasizing with me. I realized that I haven’t had anybody who listened to me on this entire trip. It was as if she was a mirror to reflect back of what I’ve been feeling and to affirm that all of my experiences are valid. I didn’t realize how much I needed the affirmation from somebody who gets me. She knows what it takes to do the PCT. I didn’t need to explain a lot to her and that’s another reason I was at ease in her presence. She was an ideal ally to someone like me. I am hopeful that there would be more people who can listen and show empathy and understanding to the BIPOC experience on the trail.

Appreciation: I cannot thank enough my other behind the scene supporter: Eiko who has been helping me with my website and uploading my updates. Thank you. For Jesse who shared her day with me for the amazing conversation and connection – I felt seen and heard. Thank you. 

Best learning: At this point, I learned how to find the best huckleberries. They look different depending on where they grow. The best ones are small, round and frosted-glass dark blue compared to bigger, flatter and dark without the frosted-glass looking. They’re so fragrant with a hint of pear. During this section, I started eating 200-300 berries a day! The most delicious ones were concentrated around and north of Hope Lake and I look forward to more as I move up north. I love the gift that I am receiving from mother nature and by eating them, I know I am pooping their seeds out to help them spread for the future! 

The best huckleberries are found in the alpine area

Challenges: Keeping the balance between being in the present moment and feeling the urgency to get to Canada because I am so close!  

Disappointment: I left my bandana at one of the breaks I took. Luckily, I noticed it within 10 minutes so I ran back and got it. As I was running, another thru-hiker came. I asked if he saw a red bandana on the trail and he said no. Later, when I caught up to him, I showed him the bandana and said I found it. His response was: “You went back just for that?!” I was disappointed to hear that because I would like all of us to practice mindfulness to leave no trace. Also, every piece of gear is important to me and I take care of my gear as if they are part of my body. For that reason, when I heard him say “just for that,” I felt sad because it is essential and I care about it.

Exciting moments: Meeting Jesse and having the conversation, huckleberries, seeing the Mt. Rainier, Mountain Goats, and Glacier Lake which had a shape of a heart.

Glacier Lake