I left Stevens Pass in the evening and made it to a beautiful meadow about 4 miles from the pass. The sunset was gorgeous and I thought it would be another clear sunny day the next day. When I woke up in the morning, I noticed overcast. As I started walking, it sprinkled. I like this kind of weather too. I don’t need to worry about stepping onto something that I cannot see in my own shadows. The cloud cover brings even light for good photography and keeps the forest cool. I enjoy listening to the sound of rain bouncing off the leaves. I expected more rain and afternoon thunderstorms since I came to the rainforest of the Pacific Northwest. So when I met local folks and heard them say that it would rain the next day, I was mentally prepared for it and I still prayed to the weather god for light rain not down pour. I also smelled smoke. I was concerned and prayed to the fire god for giving me another week to finish the northbound trip to Canada.
The weather held up the next day and wildlife seems to know that. I saw so many marmots playing, feeding and calling each other. Mama grouse we’re hanging out with her chicks. I saw plenty of water and the rush green with the Dakobed (Glacier Peak) right in front of me. Again, abundance – the one word to describe the Pacific Northwest rainforest came into my mind.
I met a couple from Seattle who came for a weeklong backpacking trip between Stevens Pass and Rainy Pass. They said this section is one of the best and most beautiful parts of Washington. When I met them they were taking a picture of scat. They didn’t know what animal’s so I was happy to share what I think based on the shape and size of the droppings. They were surprised that I stopped to investigate the scat with them. They said, “you’re the first thru-hiker who stopped and talked to us.”
As the couple mentioned, it was absolutely gorgeous for the rest of the way even without the clear blue sky and even with more than 406 down trees. I felt comfortable with these trees compared to ones in California or Oregon. These ones had grooves carved on the trees for people to put their feet and small branches that could potentially catch your clothes or shoes were trimmed. There were meadows and passes full of wildflowers, bright green moss carpet near the water and so many huckleberries. The valleys were rocky and I heard pika everywhere. One particular valley had so many pika so I named the valley Pika Paradise Valley. I got there in the early morning when I saw the sun first time in two days. I did my sun salute ritual and right then, I saw a young buck walking ahead of me on the trail. I gave him enough distance to let him walk at his pace and then he disappeared into the bush. I found him feeding not too far from the trail so I stopped and watched him. Then he came closer to me and ate more plants. He seemed to enjoy breakfast and it was very special for just the two of us to share the quiet sunny morning. Once I was back in the forest, I loved how soft the forest duff felt on my feet and thought that I could walk forever.
For the rest of the day I hiked nice downhill slope to the trail head, where I took a shuttle bus to the resupply town called Stehekin . According to National Geographic map, this town is only accessible by air, boat or trail. There are 35 year-round residents, so this is really a town of the summertime. The town is right next to the beautiful blue lake called Lake Chelan. I asked my friend Eiko to call the post office to leave my resupply box outside but I was able to get there 5 minutes before they close to pick up my resupply box. The officer greeted me with a smile and said that 3 o’clock bus would always bring thru-hikers so even they’re supposed to close at 4pm, she usually keeps the office open until the last hiker comes in from the bus. She was another person who reminded me of people who go out of their way to support thru-hikers. Maybe it is just a few minutes for her and not a big deal, but for me, these small acts of kindness are big deal. If I didn’t get the box that evening, not only I would be out of food but also I would have to wait till the morning which would cause a slight delays. I was so relieved and sat down at the table on the deck, looking over the turquoise blue lake and whispered, “Another great day.”
Appreciation: Eiko for calling the Stehekin Post Office and asked them to leave the box for me to do after hour pick up and Katie, the post officer, to keep the door open for me to come get my box.
Best Learning and disappointment: Be mindful, especially when I’m in rush. I was so concerned about my resupply box that I completely forgot I had a couple more boxes of gear that were sent to me at Stehekin post office. They weren’t critical but important pieces of gear I needed to replace. When I realized it was too late and I was very disappointed with myself. Not only I had to ask Eiko to call the post office again the next day to forward the mails for me but also I had to ask my other friend at my next resupply location to pick them up for me. It’s a good lesson to keep calm and be mindful when I’m in rush. I need to take a deep breath and trust that things would work out.
Challenges: I was very anxious when smelling the smoke of the fire. I have come this far north and would hate to leave the trail due to the wildfires before reaching Canada. I had a challenge to bring myself back to the present moment where everything is just fine.
Exciting moments: incredible views from many passes, especially at Red Pass, swimming in two lakes in a day at Pear Lake and Lake Sally Ann, and consistent gift of vitamins-packed huckleberries
