“Come visit again,” said Carolynn, the curator and co-owner of Sheffield Park Black History & Cultural Museum in Thornbury, Ontario. The bike route passes many historical Underground Railroad sites and museums. When I arrived, Carolynn welcomed me with warm greetings and a smile. She showed me a large stone engraved with the names of black pioneer families and descendants, including her family, from 1850 to 1900. She took me to the museum and let me explore the exhibit at my own pace.

The exhibit began by showcasing beautiful art from Africa. I particularly liked handcrafted butterfly pictures, using real butterflies originating from all parts of Africa. According to the explanation, after a natural death (having lived approximately 48 hours), they are specially selected and treated, rendering them everlasting and unalterable in all climates. It moved on to the brutal history of slavery and then to the Underground Railroad.

From the exhibit, I learned that Canada was never a major participant in the trans-Atlantic trade in African slaves. Slavery expanded after 1783 when Empire Loyalists arrived in Canada, bringing their enslaved people with them. Still, the total was never high because Canadian commerce and agriculture did not lend themselves to slavery in the same way that the plantation culture of the southern United States did. Most enslaved people in Canada were used in domestic positions, or as cooks, stable hands, and farm hands. As a member of the British Empire, Canada was subject to British laws. In 1833, slavery was completely abolished, with the passage of the Slavery Abolition Act. The effect of the legislation was to turn Canada into a haven for Blacks fleeing slavery in the United States, and so the Underground Railroad came into existence.

The Underground Railroad was not a railroad in the literal sense; it was a way of describing the escape routes used by enslaved people who fled from slavery to freedom. Routes existed to guide the freedom seekers to the northern United States, which did not allow slavery. There were a number of routes that led to Canada, primarily Upper Canada. Comprised of safe houses, guides, and information providers to help escapees, the Underground Railroad adopted the language of a real railroad: safe houses were stations; guides were called conductors; and the escapees were referred to as cargo. Many of those along the escape routes were Quakers who, along with free Blacks, provided food, shelter, and transportation to the next station on the railroad. The Fugitive Slave Act of 1850, passed by the United States Congress, allowed bounty hunters to capture escaped slaves hiding anywhere in the United States and return them to slavery. This prompted many freedom seekers in the northern states to flee to Canada.

I was happy to read an exhibit dedicated to Harriet Tubman, who risked her own life many times to free enslaved black people. The person who created the panel added a section titled “My Thoughts on Harriet Tubman.” I agreed with what was written: 

Harriet Tubman completed over 19 trips on the Underground Railroad. She has saved over 300 slaves and never lost a passenger…. Harriet has been involved not only in a journey but on a mission to right the wrongs of so many. To allow the opportunity of freedom to exist among all men, women, and children. To live in peace and equality as one. The Underground Railroad and her role as a spy during the Civil War opened the doors she needed to accomplish this dream. I just want to say that for me, Harriet is one of the greatest heroines our time has had the blessed gift to experience. She has touched so many and to this day continues to do so. She has opened my eyes and my heart for as long as I breathe. Thank you, Harriet Tubman.

The exhibit ended by showcasing Underground Railroad hand-stitched quilts. The last quilt was the Underground Railroad Bike Route! The route is stitched with a gold thread weaving through the natural- and historic-themed quilts surrounding the route. I loved how colorful and detailed the art was, and I thought more cyclists would be inspired to ride this route if they see the art and know the significance of the route. 

The museum’s closing time was nearing. I wished I had more time to hear stories from Carolynn. She said to come back again with a bright, warm smile. We exchanged contact information, and I made it to Collingwood, where my Warmshowers hosts Connie and Dave live. Connie welcomed me to her wonderful home with a home-cooked meal, and I enjoyed connecting with her and Dave when he came home from work. 

The next day, I stopped by the Heritage Community Church, established in 1870, serving a multicultural congregation of Black, White, and Indigenous members in Collingwood. I learned that in 1856, with the passing of the American Slave Fugitive Act, 19 Canadian Churches petitioned King George V and received a charter to become the British Methodist Episcopal (BME) Conference. While they had not yet built a church, the local Collingwood community was included in this petition. 

From the church, I made it to Alton by early afternoon, with a plan to write at a public library in the afternoon and stay with a host in Alton. When I got there, the library was closed. I went to a school next to the library to see if they would let me use the school computer, but it didn’t work out. It was too early for me to end my day, so I canceled my stay with the host in Alton, and I kept riding to Georgetown. I was sad and disappointed to cancel my stay with the host at such short notice since she was planning to have me stay with her and cook dinner for me. Later, I received feedback on how rude I was and that I only thought of myself. It was unfortunate how it turned out. I learned to check the library hours, communicate that bike touring is unpredictable, and that it is difficult to make a promise. 

From Georgetown, I rode to Niagara-on-the-Lake. The route passed many small towns and Amish and Mennonite communities, staying high on the ridgeline with views of Lake Ontario and downtown Toronto in the far distance. I spent a night with Uga, a Couchsurfing host and artist. He loves Japanese food, and I made miso soup and eggs with natto, fermented soybeans, with rice, all part of a traditional Japanese breakfast the next day. I was delighted!

He took me to local Underground Railroad historic sites that were not on my map. Among them, I enjoyed Voice of Freedom Park, offering visitors a historical and cultural journey. The main entrance symbol is “Epa,” a West African Adinkra symbol representing “Handcuffs,” which symbolizes enslavement and captivity. It also symbolizes law and justice, particularly relating to freedom from captivity. As you enter, you follow the freedom pathway that led to Communal Circle, a space for dialogue between people both past and present, and Coloured Village Motif, an artistic interpretation of where a large number of Black residents lived during the nineteenth century in Niagara-on-the-Lake. There were benches on both the north and south sides of the park named Contemplative Space North & South. The areas were designed for deep thought, encouraging visitors to contemplate the legacies of slavery on both sides of the Niagara River and other places along the Canada-US border. It asks visitors what freedom meant for those who escaped slavery, what it means for you and for people today.

What freedom means for me and people is to live a worry-free life to meet our fundamental human needs, and to have abundant opportunities to reach our fullest potential, so that we can engage in creative work such as music, art, sports, etc., pursue personal growth, and contribute to create a healthy, caring community. I thought of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), adopted and being implemented by all United Nations Member States since 2015. The #1 goal is to end poverty in all its forms everywhere. In my opinion, poverty is an institutionalized crime against humanity derived from capitalism, a root cause of slavery. Slavery was abolished; however, we see different forms of oppression today. Until we achieve these 17 goals, including no poverty, zero hunger, good health and well-being, quality education, gender equality, clean water and sanitation, etc., for everyone, none of us is free. What freedom means to me is not about individual attaining their needs and dreams, but rather, it is about all people and being on this planet to exist in harmony. We have a lot of work to do, especially as American people, since the US officially rejected and withdrew from the SDGs in March 2025 under the current administration.

I loved these questions. They help visitors think deeply about the impact of slavery and how capitalism continues to produce modern-day slavery, such as human trafficking, forced child labour, and other forms of oppression, causing harm to humanity and other beings, both living and non-living things on the Earth. People like Uga and others I met along the way give me hope. They shared nothing but kindness, connection, and care with no money involved.

I thanked Uga and continued my ride, passing Niagara Falls, crossing the Canada-US border near Buffalo, New York, and the next day, I reached Erie, Pennsylvania.

I rode a couple of miles south of Erie to the top of the hills, where Leo and Bonnie, the Warmshower hosts, live. Leo made sure I knew the most important rule at his home: make yourself at home. “You don’t need to ask us unless you can’t find what you need. Eat whatever you find in the house. Do a load of laundry if you want. We have supper ready for you whenever you are ready to eat. You can leave whenever you need to go tomorrow. Just make yourself at home.”

I felt at home immediately. Their neighbour came over to share apple pie they made with apples from Leo and Bonnie’s backyard. After enjoying the pie, I said good night and went to sleep. I didn’t feel any pressure to socialize with them. 

This morning, Leo gave me a note card, asking me to write my name, where I live, where I began and end my bike trip, then he asked for a photo opportunity. “I take a photo of everyone and put the photo on the wall so I will remember them.” 

Carolynn at Sheffield Park Museum asked to take a photo together for the same reason: to remember. The Underground Railroad bike ride allows me to recognize the importance of remembering our stories, our struggles and successes that got us here today, and new connections I make along the way. Our paths may or may not cross again; however, we make an effort to remember each other, our sweet moments together, which brings joy and happiness. 

Leo and I stood in his front yard, and he took a few photos. As I got on the saddle, getting ready to pedal out in the glorious, beautiful morning, he said, “Come visit again. You have a place to stay anytime.”