After Kelly dropped me off at Tuolumne Meadows, I crawled into Sarah’s tent and decided to take another zero day. It was raining, hailing and cold. Considering my health and listening to my body, I thought it was a good idea to just rest all day. In fact, I have not had a single day of rest alone since I began the PCT. My zero day is usually busy with organizing resupply, problem solving, editing my writing and socializing. It was needed because I dozed off all day which only happens when I’m really sick.
The next day, it was still cold but sunny and clear. I walked into Lyell Canyon, my most favorite canyon in Yosemite, in the bright sunshine in the early morning. There was so much water! All of the seasonal creeks were running like early summer. I took a couple of breaks at my favorite spots to say hi to the familiar landscapes. The canyon took me to Donahue Pass, the first pass that is over 11,000 feet. Near the pass, I saw a peregrine falcon, and I thought it was a good omen. My health is almost back to normal, and I started to feel strength in my body. As I watched the falcon fly by, I thought I could fly the last 260 miles.
I continued the best part of the southbound trip on Nüümü Poyo to the Island Pass. When I climbed up to the pass, the iconic Banner Peak and alpine lakes appeared right in front of me. It is so grand and majestic that every time I see it, it takes my breath away. The view is photogenic and I can never get enough of it. From the Thousand Island Lakes, I decided to continue on Nüümü Poyo instead of following the PCT. This way is more scenic alternative to the PCT. The Middle Fork of San Joaquin River bridge on the PCT is damaged and uncrossable. Following Nüümü Poyo is a good detour to cover more miles on foot.
The next day, as I was walking down to Devils Postpile, I saw a couple coming up the hills and the woman recognized me. It turned out that they met me last year at Glen Pass and she remembered me. We exchanged some stories, and I continued to Red Meadows then to Lake Virginia, one of my favorite camp spots on the entire Nüümü Poyo. I thought it’s impossible to put more than 20 miles a day for this section but my hiking legs and my body is so strong that it wasn’t too difficult to put close to 30 miles on this second day. I took an evening bath at Lake Virginia, and I felt complete.
The next morning I woke up feeling 100%. I felt energy in my body and my legs were strong again. I climbed up to the Silver Pass, another favorite pass of mine because it’s surrounded by so many beautiful lakes. As I descended into the south side of the pass, again, water is everywhere and rivers are flowing with so much volume. I cleared every crossing one by one. Right before reaching Marie Lake, I talked to a northbound PCT hiker who was at my height and asked her about the ford that was coming up. Not only she said it would be knee below high but also she mentioned that fording at the South Fork of San Joaquin River was possible. She showed me pictures of her crossing and taught me exactly where to cross. I was very excited to hear the news because there was a bridge but it was damaged and not fixed for the season. Without a bridge, I heard that crossing the river was not possible. Therefore, people had to detour to continue the PCT. I made a detour plan to go up Piute Canyon Trail to North Lake, get a resupply with my friend in Bishop and hike from South Lake to Bishop Pass to rejoin the PCT. That would take me two days, including a night in Bishop. With this new information, I thought it might be possible to continue on the PCT without a detour.
The next day, I climbed up the Selden Pass and made my way to Muir Trail Ranch. It is my ritual to relax and spend a night there to enjoy soaking in the Shooting Star Hot Springs, which is across the river from the ranch. I come here for the hot springs and this is the most exciting part of the entire Nüümü Poyo for me. When I arrived, Morgan, a teacher at an elementary school, gave me meals and snacks that she didn’t need. With her support, I had enough food to try crossing the South Fork of San Joaquin River and make it to my next resupply. I was so excited just for the possibility to continue Nüümü Poyo without having to detour. What an amazing way to be able to finish the PCT! With that excitement, I soaked in the hot springs and exhaled deeply, thinking it would all work out the way it is meant to be.
Appreciation: for Kelly for the ride to Tuolumne, for Sarah for letting me stay and rest on the rainy day at her tent, for the northbound hiker for taking her time to share details of fording at South Fork of San Joaquin River, for Morgan for giving away her unnecessary food and for MTR staff for welcoming and being kind to me always.
Best learning: have a plan and be surprised for new possibilities.
Challenge and disappointment: it took me two weeks to feel 100%! I was disappointed that I couldn’t enjoy my favorite part of the Sierra on the first two days.
Exciting moments: views from Island Pass and Silver Pass. Seeing two people from Germany I met at Glen Pass last year on the trail. One of them remembered me and we had a good conversation. At MTR, seeing a couple from Denmark I hiked for a few hours near Mt Shasta on the PCT earlier.
