At Nantahala Outdoor Center, I received my resupply package. I quickly repacked and organized my food and took care of other routine tasks. There were quite a few thru-hikers at the center. They all seemed to be busy, taking care of their needs. I was able to focus on my tasks when everybody else was doing the same.

On the way out, I grabbed portable water, thinking that it’ll be easier since I can drink without treating it. 

When I took a sip of water, I immediately spit it out and this phrase hit me hard- “Mni Wiconi,” a Lakota phrase for water is life, water is sacred, which I learned when I participated the Standing Rock protest against the Dakota Access Pipeline in 2016. The quality of water we consume impact our well-being of our life. It had been a week since I started drinking stream and spring water at that point. These waters taste amazing. When I took a sip of the portable water, my body knew immediately the water wasn’t pure and doesn’t have the energy of sacredness. It had been treated with chemical and it didn’t have the quality that sustains well-being of myself. 

I probably wouldn’t have noticed it if I haven’t been drinking mountain water. One of the benefits of thru-hiking is that I have a privilege of accessing incredible natural water about half a year except when I had to get water from cow tanks on the CDT.

I consider that having clean air and water is one of the fundamental human rights, and yet, a lot of people on this planet don’t have access to it. I think about it often how privileged I am that I grew up and live in the countries where I could just turn on the faucet and drink water even though it is not natural mineral water. I don’t have to think about the hardship and labor to get water unless I’m thru-hiking.

On the CDT, water was so scarce. I put a lot of labor and planned carefully to have enough water to keep going. My days were dictated by water all the time. Here on the AT, not so much. So far, If I walk 7 miles, I can certainly hit water source. Sometimes, a series of springs and streams were on the trail. What a luxury to have a plenty of water. 

The abundance of water on the AT is reflected by the green belt of the mountains all the way to the horizon. My lips are not chapped. My fingertips haven’t cracked. My body also appreciates the humidity and hiking in the shades.   

In the forest, I saw many butterflies flying around. They were chasing each other and looking for their mates. I admire them for many reasons. They are a symbol of metamorphosis, migration and beauty. The trail became a butterfly boulevard. As butterflies danced in the air, beautiful songs of birds echoed in the cathedral of the trees. I couldn’t help smiling as I moved through the forest.

I also encountered quite a few bear scat and had the first sight of deer once I entered Great Smoky Mountain National Park. We made an eye contact and she looked at me with gentle gaze and kept me company for a while. I watched her walk gracefully. Very peaceful, I thought. I hope that I would attain her level of walking in peace someday.

On the way, I walked over the Fontana Dam bridge. The dam is known as the tallest dam in eastern United States. I had a mixed feelings as I walked across into Great Smoky Mountain National Park. I found it interesting that a huge human-made structure that fundamentally destructs the environment sits right next to a national park, of which mission is to “preserve unimpaired the natural and cultural resources and values of the National Park System for the enjoyment, education, and inspiration of this and future generations.”

Perhaps my mixed feelings are a reflection of my constant struggle of living a modern life that has disconnected from nature and wanting to stay connected to our Mother Earth when I benefit a lot from our convenient life. We exist in between of completely different things- ideology and reality. Dams and national parks. It is kind of standing on the edge of a coin that has two sides. No wonder why it’s difficult! Shouting, “peace and justice!” at many protests under the structure of the US military industry complex, “refuse, reduce, reuse and recycle!” while capitalism tells us to consume more, and etc. Yet, I choose to struggle, walking on the edge of reality and ideology, over trying nothing. The point is not whether I make a difference. What matters is that I live my life fully, like these birds and butterflies, to fill my role and responsibility on this planet no matter what outcomes we have. 

In Great Smoky Mountain National Park, the elevation got higher. I noticed that leaves were not out yet over 5,000 feet.

This morning, I made it to Kuwohi, the highest point of the AT, at sunrise. I walked in the dark through the winds and snow. When I made it to the tower, there were a few visitors who drove up there, shivering and waiting for the fog to clear out for the sunrise. 

Soon, I saw the sun behind the fog and conifers covered with fresh snow. 

Soon, everyone left. I was alone on top of the observation tower. Since I was there longer, the fog cleared up little more and I was able to glance the mountains.

I continued my journey to Newfound Gap. By then, the sun came through the trees, and I was finally warming up. Trillium seemed to have frost damages on them, and I know they’ll bounce back and be fine. They adapt to changes- to survive and thrive. So we can. 

I didn’t expect to see snow on the AT. I thought it was a gift that I was glad to receive. Even though it’s freezing and cold, the snow brought us much needed water to the area which struggles with a severe drought.

Before reaching Newfound Gap, my next resupply point and a place where my friend Nat would meet me, I found a spring. The water I carried this morning froze. I was delighted to find the beautiful spring. I filtered and drank the water. It was amazing! Every time I drink spring water, I feel rejuvenated, refreshed and restored. My whole

body feels alive again. I said, “Cheers to Kuwohi and this crystal clean water!”

Yes, Mni Wiconi- water is life!