{"id":2980,"date":"2025-10-06T06:36:54","date_gmt":"2025-10-06T06:36:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mihoaida.com\/pct\/?p=2980"},"modified":"2026-03-05T18:23:23","modified_gmt":"2026-03-05T18:23:23","slug":"10-6-2025-tour-divide-section-5-wamsutter-to-salida-colorado-mile-1141-1514","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mihoaida.com\/pct\/10-6-2025-tour-divide-section-5-wamsutter-to-salida-colorado-mile-1141-1514\/","title":{"rendered":"10\/6\/2025: Tour Divide Section 5: Wamsutter to Salida, Colorado (Mile 1,141 \u2013 1,514)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

When I arrived at Wamsutter, first, I went to a hotel. There was no one at the front desk, so I biked around the town and found a community park. The manager who works at the gas station was walking over, and I asked him if it was OK to camp in the park. He said, “Only 200 people live in this town, and it\u2019s really safe. You\u2019ll be fine.” It was right next to the I-80 and the fire department. There was a lot of noise and light, and I slept okay, surprisingly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Beautiful sunrise at the Great Basin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The next morning, I left before 7 AM, beginning Section 5 of the Tour Divide<\/a>. The sunrise was beautiful. As the weather forecast predicted, it was windy, and I had a headwind all day. The Great Basin continued for an additional 28 miles until Highway 789. In the afternoon, there was a little bit of rain. Finally, I made it to the pass and descended to a small valley town called Savery. 
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The landscape dramatically changed from wide open fields to hills after crossing the highway.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Crossing the Savery Creek<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Once I was down in the valley, I rode 4 miles of pavement and crossed the Wyoming and Colorado border. I turned onto Slater Creek Road and made my way up hills to Brush Mountain Lodge in the evening golden light. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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When I called the lodge a month ago, they mentioned that they were closed for cyclists for the\u00a0season and renting the entire lodge to hunters. “You can always get water, so stop by if you need it,” said\u00a0the front desk person on the\u00a0phone. So I stopped and asked for water. It turned out that the hunters left, and Lori, the lodge manager, said, “You can get a bunk bed for $50, if you would like to stay. You’re the only person in the bunk house, so the entire house will be yours.” She showed me the\u00a0house, and I decided to take the deal. It was\u00a0cozy, warm, and came with\u00a0a\u00a0kitchen, dining area, and bathroom. It was perfect after a long\u00a0day of headwind, rain, and the sun. A couple of hours later, a thunderstorm came. Just like I was lucky to have a roof over my head when it rained heavily in Lima, I was lucky again to\u00a0have a comfortable place for the\u00a0night.

Well rested, the next morning, I started an uphill bike ride to a pass. I kept saying, “What a beautiful morning!” There were clouds in the sky, which kept the low, even light on the hills. Aspen, cottonwood, oak, and willow trees painted the mountains. The deer was foraging. A red-tailed\u00a0hawk soared in the sky.\u00a0I couldn\u2019t get enough of the view. It was\u00a0unreal. Soon, the sun shone\u00a0through the clouds as a spotlight on a part of the\u00a0hill, turning the aspen leaves golden. Compared to the day before, it was calm. The stretch following Slater Creek, Mill Creek, Elk River, to Steamboat Springs became one of my favorites of the Tour Divide due to its incredible fall colors.
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I crossed the Routt National Forest boundary and continued cruising uphill along Slater Creek. The route went from Slater Creek Road to Meaden Peak Road and kept ascending on the beautiful hills covered with aspen trees. Not only were they stunning, but they also blocked the wind for me as the road became narrow toward the summit. The trees kept everything calm, except I heard the leaves whistling: the wind chime of the fall season.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The route got very steep with lots of rocks for the last mile and a half to the pass. It reminded me of the Lava Mountain in Montana, where I had to get off the bike and push it up the hill. Finally, I made it, and from there it was all downhill to Steamboat Springs. It was an epic descent, surrounded by all different kinds of colors: yellow, orange, red, purple, and brown mixed with conifers\u2019 green, blue sky, and white and grey clouds. It was like a watercolor palette. I thought I had to come back and do this again and again and again!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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When I was hiking the CDT, I hitched a ride into Steamboat Springs from the south on the highway, and I went to the library first. This time, I came from the north end, following the well-maintained bike path along the Yampa River. I passed the familiar-looking library, then went to the City Market for a late lunch and food for the next two days. At the City Market, I remember meeting Heidi, a woman who gave me a ride back to the trailhead when I was hiking the CDT. I wish I had her phone numbers so I could see her again. I hope she is doing well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I left Steamboat Springs and petaled in the gorgeous evening light. There was no wind, and it made a huge difference. The hills on the east side were lit by the golden light, and I thought I could live in Steamboat Springs, and I would do this ride over and over again in the fall. During the thru-hiking and the tour divide season, I can be a trail angel for both hikers and bikers since both CDT hikers and tour divide bikers come through the town for resupply, and yet, there is no hiker or biker center in town. I remember Heidi mentioning that this town has a lot of resources, and I could work with the community to raise money to support the hikers and bikers. I have many dreams and ideas, and creating a support system in Steamboat became one of them!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I passed Lake Catamount and rode to Stagecoach State Park. There was a bike path that went along the reservoir. At sunset, I came to a trailhead with picnic tables and flat grounds to pitch my tent. I was hoping to have a camp under trees to avoid condensation in the tent and to stay warmer, and I was running out of daylight. I settled in at the spot and enjoyed watching the twilight over the water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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As I predicted, I woke up the next morning with a lot of condensation in the tent. I don’t like packing a wet tent, and alas, I did it anyway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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It was another beautiful, calm morning with crisp and clear fall sky. I started my morning, pedaling towards Lynx Pass. There was no headwind. The smooth, unpaved road made the uphill riding much easier. On the way up, quite a few cars were coming down.\u00a0When I see oncoming traffic, I usually smile and\/or wave at them. It\u2019s free! Some of them give right back at me, which makes a moment of connection with people on the road. I learned the importance of active random kindness to people who have never met before. As a thru-hiker and biker,\u00a0I am the recipient of this kindness most of the time. Smiling and waving to show that we\u2019re all connected is one way that I could give back right now.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I followed the Morrison Creek, ascending a gradual slope surrounded by fall colors and the blue sky. I was getting low on water and considering getting water from Morrison Creek. However, the water looked murky. If I were thru-hiking, I would\u2019ve probably gotten the water. Since I\u2019m on the bike, I can cover so many miles a day that I know I will get to the drinking water at some point in the day. Another luxury of bike packing is moving faster and having much easier access to drinking water. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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As I gained elevation, I started seeing conifers, and they gave me additional protection from the south-west prevailing headwind. After three hours of slow and steady climb, I made it to the Lynx Pass. After descending from the pass, I crossed a highway and continued my way south along Moose Creek, then a surprise came. Creek ford! I remember many fords on the CDT, and for some reason, I didn\u2019t think that I would have to do that on my bike trip. Since the Tour Divide goes through National Forest and BLM lands, of course, there are some fords! If I were hiking, I would have just walked through the water with my hiking shoes. Bike shoes take a long time to dry, and I learned that the hard way when I went through a pothole in Montana. I took time to put my Crocs on and pushed my bike through the creek to make the cross.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Fording the creek with my bicycle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I went over another summit, and on the way there, I took the first glance of rugged mountains with snow on top. I exclaimed, \u201cThat\u2019s Colorado, I know!\u201d I kept my eyes on the mountains and continued my way to the top of the plateau, where I saw the Colorado River. I descended into the huge river canyon, seeing the vegetation change, and soon I was surrounded by red rocks and Juniper trees. I love the scent of Juniper. As I flew down the hills, I inhaled as much aroma of Juniper as possible. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I made it down to the Colorado River. It was beautiful with all the fall colors, and I saw boaters and rafters enjoying the river. It\u00a0was so warm that I was hot. I\u00a0went down to where they put their boats, looking for water. I could\u2019ve gotten water from the river, and when I asked one of the boaters, Rick, who was putting his\u00a0raft away, if he had any extra water. \u201cOf course, let me get you some water. It\u2019s filtered,\u201d said Rick.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I said thank you to Rick and started climbing up the Canyon. I made it to the first pass, and the scenery completely changed from a conifer\/aspen mixed forest to a sagebrush-and-juniper desert-like landscape with rocky terraces. The descent was exciting, and\u00a0once I hit the bottom of the valley, there was another uphill to another pass. I went over four passes a day! That\u2019s the most passes I climbed on the Tour Divide. There are many differences and similarities between CDT and GDMTB. In Colorado, I remember going over multiple passes a day on the CDT, and it kicked my butt. On my\u00a0bike trip, it\u2019s similar, except that the GDMTB\u00a0is not as steep and high-elevation\u00a0as the CDT, and there was no headwind on the well-maintained, wide roads. Even though I went up and over four passes a day, I didn\u2019t feel as exhausted as\u00a0I\u00a0did when I crossed the Great Basin in\u00a0Wyoming.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I passed the scenic by way of Cold Waters headwater and made it to the last pass. A long and steep descent followed, and it was exhilarating! A new landscape opened up with a completely new scenery! I hit the Colorado River again and rode to the William Fork Reservoir. The golden evening light was shining on the mountains. I watched horses running alongside me in the golden light. Another beautiful evening and sunset. I settled in at the reservoir’s campground. Again, no trees! I wanted to make it to the trees in the Arapahoe National Forest, and I ran out of daylight. As I pitched my wet tent, I thought that I would have another morning with lots of condensation. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The next morning, I woke up with frost inside my tent! It felt like it was 25\u00b0F. I remember when I was going through the snow in the San Juan Mountains on the CDT, it took me a long time to get ready. Cold air sinks. Cold water is dense. Since we are made of air and water, it makes sense that I become slower when it’s cold. Still, I was able to get going before 7 am.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Within a few minutes of riding, my hands and feet got numb. Now it\u2019s October, and I thought it might be a good indicator to start my day later when it gets warmer. My body is used to moving 12 to 14 hours a day, and now, it\u2019s past fall equinox, it may be more natural for me to reduce hours as we shift towards wintertime: a time for rest and staying warm as a mammal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Speaking of getting ready for winter, I also need to eat well! I\u2019ve lost not just weight, but also my reserve that I had before my trip. I’m still recovering from the chronic calorie\u00a0deficit from hiking the CDT. On the bike trip, I have much easier access to fresh food since I go through towns almost every day. I eat well, and therefore, I don\u2019t feel the same hunger I felt on the CDT. I want to eat for nourishment, not just for calories.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I crossed the boundary to the Arapaho National Forest and began a gentle and long ascent to Ute Pass. The road was well-maintained and soon became paved. I passed a dam, and I wondered what it used to look like without it. Near the top of the pass, aspen leaves were lit by the morning light, bringing another magical morning with a deep blue sky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Well-maintained, gentle uphill road to Ute Pass, almost at the top!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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When I made it to the top, I saw the massive mountains! There\u2019s nothing like the Colorado Rockies soaring over 14,000 feet. I took my time and enjoyed the view. I made an exhilarating fast descent down to Highway 9. Once I made it to the highway, I rode gradually uphill to Silverthorne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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When I looked at these massive mountains, there was something different. It took me a while to figure it out. No snow! Although it was a lot of effort to travel through snow, post-holing, crawling, and sliding, when I look at mountains, I prefer snow-capped ridges. If someone asks me if I would ever try the San Juan Mountains in May again, I would say absolutely! I have a better idea of what it’s like, and I will change some gear choices to make it more enjoyable next time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Highway 9 turned out to be a pretty busy road. Since I got used to riding quiet back roads, I was annoyed by the traffic. When the bike route deviated from the highway to the Blue River Bike Path in Silverthorne, I was relieved. From there, through Frisco to Breckenridge, the bike path was well-maintained, and I enjoyed the ride along Dillon Reservoir and Blue River. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dan and Liz, who gave me a ride at Twin Lakes on my CDT journey, introduced me to Katie and Adam, who live in Breckenridge. I headed over to their house and met their friend Sky, who joined us for dinner. It was very nice to have a good meal, company, and cozy home to relax and rest. The next day’s weather forecast predicted a chance of rain\/snow, and Katie offered to take a rest day to wait out the weather to improve. I took a day off, going grocery shopping with\u00a0Katie, repairing my gear, working on bike\u00a0maintenance, spending some time at the library, and cooking dinner. As the forecast predicted, it rained and hailed heavily. I was glad to have a lovely home and stay warm.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In Japan, there is a saying, \u201cIt gets colder with each rain.\u201d After the rain from the previous day, it felt like the coldest morning since I began my bicycle tour. I waited until 9 AM to start my ride. Still, my hands and feet were cold until 10 AM! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

When I came to Breckenridge two days ago, there was no snow on the mountains. While it rained in town, it snowed in the mountains. As I began my ride, I saw the ridge line was covered with snow, and the mountains looked completely different. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I started an ascent toward Boreas Pass, the highest point of Section 5 and so far on the tour at 11,482 feet. When I hiked through the\u00a0Wind River Range in Wyoming in mid-July was the\u00a0last time\u00a0I was over 11,000 feet.\u00a0The road up to the pass was a very gentle climb, and I didn\u2019t feel much of the impact of high altitude. Since I switched to a mostly plant-based diet, one big difference I noticed was that my athletic performance improved at a high altitude. Now I could go from sea level all the way to 10,000 feet on the same day, and I have no problem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I made it to the pass and enjoyed the incredible view. From there, I followed the Boreas Pass Road and soon took a turn onto Gold Dust Trail, the longest single-track mountain bike route so far on the Tour Divide. The trail went through the trees and crossed\u00a0N. Tarryall Creek. The bridge had ice, and there were icicles on the edge of the creek. It was 6 miles long, and I saw one hiker and a mountain biker along the way.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The trail merged with Boreal Pass Road and descended to a small town called Como. From there, it was all\u00a0wide open fields just like the Great Basin in Wyoming. However, the headwind was not as strong as what I experienced in the Great Basin until I passed Harsel, another small town.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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From Harsel, the headwind became strong, and I kept pushing through the wind. I went over the second pass of the day right before sunset.\u00a0I\u00a0continued after dark with the moonlight until I reached the trees. When I saw the trees, I was relieved and comforted. I pitched my tent under a giant pine tree, knowing that it would protect me from the wind and condensation from the cold air. It got more windy through the night, and I mentally prepared myself for another windy day ride the next day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The windstorm died down around midnight, and it became very quiet.\u00a0
The giant pine tree and the overcast protected me from condensation and cold. I woke up warm and\u00a0left my camp, going over one last pass before a long, fun descent down to Salida, the Gateway community of the CDT hikers. When I hiked the CDT, I didn\u2019t come all the way down to Salida. I picked up my resupply at Monarch Crest Lodge and rode down to the Monarch Butterfly House to spend a night. On the way, I remember a steep descent from the pass. I knew it would be a steep ascent from here to begin Section 6 of the Tour Divide.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I’m ready!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When I arrived at Wamsutter, first, I went to a hotel. There was no one at the front desk, so I biked around the town and found a community park. The manager who works at the gas station was walking over, and I asked him if it was OK to camp in the park. He said, “Only […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2968,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2980","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cdt"],"yoast_head":"\n10\/6\/2025: Tour Divide Section 5: Wamsutter to Salida, Colorado (Mile 1,141 \u2013 1,514) - triple crown of full circle<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/mihoaida.com\/pct\/10-6-2025-tour-divide-section-5-wamsutter-to-salida-colorado-mile-1141-1514\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"10\/6\/2025: Tour Divide Section 5: Wamsutter to Salida, Colorado (Mile 1,141 \u2013 1,514) - triple crown of full circle\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"When I arrived at Wamsutter, first, I went to a hotel. 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